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BEING AN ACCOUNT OF THE FIRST PASSAGE ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS OF NORTH —————
 HAVING
reached the mouth of the river Platte, our voyagers encamped for three
days, during which they were busily occupied in drying and airing their
goods and provisions, making new oars and poles, and repairing the
birch
canoe, which had sustained material injury. The hunters brought
in
an abundance of game, with which the boats were loaded to
repletion. Deer was had for the asking, and turkeys and fat grouse were
met with
in
great plenty. The party, moreover, regaled on several species of
fish, and, at a short distance from the river banks, found an exquisite
kind of wild grape. No Indians had been seen for better than a
fortnight,
as this was the hunting season, and they were doubtless engaged in the
prairies, taking buffalo. After perfectly recruiting, the
voyagers
broke up their encampment, and pushed on up the Missouri. We
resume
the words of the Journal.August 14. We started
with a
delightful
breeze from the S. E., and kept along by the Southern shore, taking
advantage
of the eddy, and going at a great rate, notwithstanding the current,
which,
in the middle, was unusually full and strong. At noon, we stopped
to examine some remarkable mounds on the south-western shore, at a spot
where the ground seems to have sunk considerably to an extent of three
hundred acres, or more. A large pond is in the vicinity, and
appears
to have drained the low tract. This is covered with mounds of
various
sizes, and shapes, all formed of sand and mud, the highest being
nearest
the river. I could not make up my mind whether these hillocks
were
of natural or artificial construction. I should have supposed
them
made by the Indians, but for the general appearance of the soil, which
had apparently been subjected to the violent action of water.* We staid
at this spot the rest of the day, having made altogether twenty miles.August 15. To-day we
had a heavy,
disagreeable
head wind, and made only fifteen miles, with great labor; encamping at
night beneath a bluff on the north shore, this being the first bluff on
that side which we had seen since leaving the Nodaway river. In
the
night it came on to rain in torrents, and the Greelys brought in their
horses, and ensconced themselves in the cabin. Robert swam the
river
with his horse from the South shore, and then took the canoe across for
Meredith. He appeared to think nothing of either of these feats,
although the night was one of the darkest and most boisterous I ever
saw,
and the river was much swollen. We all sat in the cabin very
comfortably,
for the weather was quite cool, and were kept awake for a long time by
the anecdotes of Thornton, who told story after story of his adventures
with the Indians on the Mississippi. His huge dog appeared to
listen
with profound attention to every word that was said. Whenever any
particularly incredible circumstance was related, Thornton would
gravely
refer to him as a witness. "Nep," he would say, "don't you
remember
that time?" — or "Nep can swear to the truth of that — can't you, Nep?"
— when the animal would roll up his eyes immediately, loll out his
monstrous
tongue, and wag his great head up and down, as much as to say — "Oh
it's
every bit as true as the Bible." Although we all knew that this trick
had
been taught the dog, yet for our lives we could not forbear shouting
with
laughter, whenever Thornton would appeal to him.August 16. Early this
morning
passed
an island, and a creek about fifteen yards wide, and, at a farther
distance
of twelve miles, a large island in the middle of the river. We
had
now, generally, high prairie, and timbered hills on the north, with low
ground on the south, covered with cotton-wood. The river was
excessively
crooked, but not so rapid as before we passed the Platte. Altogether
there is less timber than formerly; what there is, is mostly elm,
cotton-wood,
hickory, and walnut, with some oak. Had a strong wind nearly all
day, and by means of the eddy and this, we made twenty-five miles
before
night. Our encampment was on the south, upon a large plain,
covered
with high grass, and bearing a great number of plum-trees and
currant-bushes. In our rear was a steep woody ridge, ascending which we
found another
prairie
extending back for about a mile, and stopped again by a similar woody
ridge,
followed by another vast prairie, going off into the distance as far as
the eye can reach. From the cliffs just above us we had one of
the
most beautiful prospects in the world.†August 17. We remained
at the
encampment
all day, and occupied ourselves in various employments. Getting
Thornton,
with his dog, to accompany me, I strolled to some distance to the
[page 110:] southward,
and was enchanted with the voluptuous beauty of the country. The
prairies exceeded in beauty any thing told in the tales of the Arabian
Nights. On the edges of the creeks there was a wild mass of
flowers
which looked more like Art than Nature, so profusely and fantastically
were their vivid colors blended together. Their rich odor was
almost
oppressive. Every now and then we came to a kind of green island
of trees, placed amid an ocean of purple, blue, orange, and crimson
blossoms,
all waving to and fro in the wind. These islands consisted of the
most majestic forest oaks, and, beneath them, the grass resembled a
robe
of the softest green velvet, while up their huge stems there clambered,
generally, a profusion of grape vines, laden with delicious ripe
fruit. The Missouri, in the distance, presented the most majestic
appearance;
and many of the real islands with which it was studded were entirely
covered
with plum bushes, or other shrubbery, except where crossed in various
directions
by narrow, mazy paths, like the alleys in an English flowergarden; and
in these alleys we could always see either elks or antelopes, who had
no
doubt made them. We returned, at sun-set, to the encampment,
delighted
with our excursion. The night was warm, and we were excessively annoyed
by mosquitoes.August 18. To-day
passed through a
narrow
part of the river, not more than two hundred yards wide, with a rapid
channel,
much obstructed with logs and drift wood. Ran the large boat on a
sawyer, and half filled her with water before we could extricate her
from
the difficulty. We were obliged to halt, in consequence, and
overhaul
our things. Some of the biscuit was injured, but none of the
powder. Remained all day — having only made five miles.August 19. We started
early this
morning
and made great headway. The weather was cool and cloudy, and at
noon
we had a drenching shower. Passed a creek on the south, the mouth
of which is nearly concealed by a large sand-island of singular
appearance. Went about fifteen miles beyond this. The highlands now
recede
from
the river, and are probably from ten to twenty miles apart. On
the
north is a good deal of fine timber, but on the south very
little. Near the river are beautiful prairies, and along the banks we
procured
four or five different species of grape, all of good flavor and quite
ripe;
one is a large purple grape of excellent quality. The hunters
came
into camp, at night, from both sides of the river, and brought us more
game than we well knew what to do with — grouse, turkies, two deer, an
antelope, and a quantity of yellow birds with black-striped wings —
these
latter proved delicious eating. We made about twenty miles during
the day. August 20. The river,
this morning,
was full of sand-bars and other obstructions; but we proceeded with
spirit,
and reached the mouth of a pretty large creek, before night, at a
distance
of twenty miles from our last encampment. The creek comes in from
the north, and has a large island opposite its mouth. Here we
made
our camp, with the resolution of remaining four or five days to trap
beaver,
as we saw great signs of them in the neighborhood. This island
was
one of the most fairy-looking situations in the world, and filled my
mind
with the most delightful and novel emotions. The whole scenery
rather
resembled what I had dreamed of when a boy, than an actual
reality. The banks sloped down very gradually into the water, and were
carpeted
with a short soft grass of a brilliant green hue, which was visible
under
the surface of the stream for some distance from the shore; especially
on the north side, where the clear creek fell into the river. All
round the island, which was probably about twenty acres in extent, was
a complete fringe of cotton-wood; the trunks loaded with grape vines in
full fruit, and so closely-interlocking with each other, that we could
scarcely get a glimpse of the river between the leaves. Within
this
circle the grass was somewhat higher, and of a coarser texture, with a
pale yellow or white streak down the middle of each blade, and giving
out
a remarkably deliclous perfume, resembling that of the Vanilla bean,
but
much stronger, so that the whole atmosphere was loaded with it. The
common English sweet grass is no doubt of the same genus, but greatly
inferior
in beauty, and fragrance. Interspersed among it in every
direction,
were myriads of the most brilliant flowers, in full bloom, and most of
them of fine odor — blue, pure white, bright yellow, purple, crimson,
gaudy
scarlet, and some with streaked leaves like tulips. Little knots
of cherry trees and plum bushes grew in various directions about, and
there
were many narrow winding paths which circled the island, and which had
been made by elk or antelopes. Nearly in the centre, was a spring
of sweet and clear water, which bubbled up from among a cluster of
steep
rocks, covered from head to foot with moss and flowering vines. The
whole bore a wonderful resemblance to an artificial flower garden, but
was infinitely more beautiful — looking rather like some of those
scenes
of enchantment which we read of in old books. We were all in
extacy
with the spot, and prepared our camp in the highest glee, amid its
wilderness
of sweets. [The party remained here a week,
during which
time,
the neighboring country to the north was explored in many directions,
and
some peltries obtained, especially upon the creek mentioned. The
weather was fine, and the enjoyment of the voyagers suffered no alloy,
in their terrestrial Paradise. Mr. Rodman, however, omitted no
necessary
precautions, and sentries were regularly posted every night, when all
hands
assembled at camp, and made merry. Such feasting and drinking
were
never before known; the Canadians proving themselves the very best
fellows
in the world at a song, or over a flagon. They did nothing but
eat,
and cook, and dance, and shout French carols at the top of their
voice. During the day they were chiefly entrusted with the charge of
the
encampment,
while the steadier members of the party were absent upon hunting or
trapping
expeditions. In one of these Mr. Rodman enjoyed an excellent
opportunity
of observing the habits of the beaver; and his [page 111:]
account of this singular
animal is highly interesting — the more so as it differs materially, in
some points, from the ordinary descriptions.He was attended, as usual, by
Thornton and his
dog,
and had traced up a small creek to its source in the highlands about
ten
miles from the river. The party came at length to a place where a
large swamp had been made by the beavers, in damming up the
creek. A thick grove of willows occupied one extremity of the swamp,
some of
them
overhanging the water at a spot where several of the animals were
observed. Our adventurers crept stealthily round to these willows, and
making
Neptune
lie down at a little distance, succeeded in climbing, unobserved, into
a large and thick tree, where they could look immediately down upon all
that was going on.The beavers were repairing a portion
of their
dam,
and every step of their progress was distinctly seen. One by one
the architects were perceived to approach the edge of the swamp, each
with
a small branch in his mouth. With this he proceeded to the dam,
and
placed it carefully, and longitudinally, on the part which had given
way. Having done this, he dived immediately, and in a few seconds
reappeared
above the surface with a quantity of stiff mud, which he first squeezed
so as to drain it of its moisture in a great degree, and then applied
with
its feet and tail (using the latter as a trowel) to the branch which he
had just laid upon the breach. He then made off among the trees,
and was quickly succeeded by another of the community, who went through
precisely the same operation.In this way the damage sustained by
the dam was
in
a fair way of being soon repaired. Messieurs Rodman and Thornton
observed the progress of the work for more than two hours, and bear
testimony
to the exquisite skill of the artizans. But as soon as a beaver
left
the edge of the swamp in search of a branch, he was lost sight of among
the willows, much to the chagrin of the observers, who were anxious to
watch his farther operations. By clambering a little higher up in
the tree, however, they discovered every thing. A small sycamore
had been felled, apparently, and was now nearly denuded of all its fine
branches, a few beavers still nibbling off some that remained, and
proceeding
with them to the dam. In the mean time a great number of the
animals
surrounded a much older and larger tree, which they were busily
occupied
in cutting down. There were as many as fifty or sixty of the
creatures
around the trunk, of which number six or seven would work at once,
leaving
off one by one, as each became weary; a fresh one stepping in to the
vacated
place. When our travellers first observed the sycamore, it had
been
already cut through to a great extent, but only on the side nearest the
swamp, upon the edge of which it grew. The incision was nearly a
foot wide, and as cleanly made as if done with an axe; and the ground
at
the bottom of the tree was covered with fine longitudinal slips, like
straws,
which had been nibbled out, and not eaten; as it appears that these
animals
only use the bark for food. When at work some sat upon the hind
legs,
in the posture so conunon with squirrels, and gnawed at the wood; their
fore feet resting upon the edge of the cut, and their heads thrust far
into the aperture. Two of them, however, were entirely within the
incision; lying at length, and working with great eagerness for a short
time, when they were relieved by their companions.Although the position of our voyagers was any thing
but comfortable, so great was their curiosity to witness the felling of
the sycamore, that they resolutely maintained their post until sunset,
an interval of eight hours from the time of ascending. Their
chief
embarrassment was on Neptune's account, who could with difficulty be
kept
from plunging in the swamp after the plasterers who were repairing the
dam. The noise he made had several times disturbed the nibblers
at
the tree, who would every now and then start, as if all actuated by one
mind, and listen attentively for many minutes. As evening
approached,
however, the dog gave over his freaks, and lay quiet; while the beavers
went on uninterruptedly with their labor.Just as the sun began to set, a
sudden commotion
was observed among the wood-cutters, who all started from the tree, and
flew round to the side which was untouched. In an instant
afterwards
it was seen to settle down gradually on the gnawed side, till the lips
of the incision met; but still it did not fall, being sustained
partially
by the unsundered bark. This was now attacked with zeal by as
many
nibblers as could find room to work at it, and very quickly severed;
when
the huge tree, to which the proper inclination had already been so
ingeniously
given, fell with a tremendous crash, and spread a great portion of its
topmost branches over the surface of the swamp. This matter
accomplished,
the whole community seemed to think a holiday was deserved, and,
ceasing
work at once, began to chase each other about in the water, diving, and
slapping the surface with their tails.The account here given of the method
employed by
the beaver in its wood-cutting operations, is more circumstantial than
any we have yet seen, and seems to be conclusive in regard to the
question
of design on the animal's part. The intention of making
the
tree fall towards the water appears here to be obvious. Captain
Bonneville,
it will be remembered, discredits the alleged sagacity of the animal in
this respect, and thinks it has no farther aim than to get the tree
down,
without any subtle calculation in respect to its mode of descent. This
attribute, he thinks, has been ascribed to it from the
circumstance
that trees in general, which grow near the margin of water, either lean
bodily towards the stream, or stretch their most ponderous limbs in
that
direction, in search of the light, space, and air, which are there
usually
found. The beaver, he says, attacks, of course, those trees which
are nearest at hand, and on the banks of the stream or pond, and these,
when cut through, [page 112:] naturally preponderate towards
the water. This
suggestion is well-timed; but by no means conclusive against the design
of the beaver; whose sagacity, at best, is far beneath that which is
positively
ascertained in respect to many classes of inferior animals — infinitely
below that of the lion-ant, of the bee, and of the corralliferi. The
probability is that, were two trees offered to the choice of the
beaver,
one of which preponderated to the water, and the other did not, he
would,
in felling the first, omit, as unnecessary, the precautions just
described,
but observe them in felling the second.In a subsequent portion of the
Journal other
particulars
are given respecting the habits of the singular animal in question, and
of the mode of trapping it employed by the party, and we give them here
for the sake of continuity. The principal food of the beavers is
bark, and of this they put by regularly a large store for winter
provision,
selecting the proper kind with care and deliberation. A whole
tribe,
consisting sometimes of two or three hundred, will set out together
upon
a foraging expedition, and pass through groves of trees all apparently
similar, until a particular one suits their fancy. This they cut
down, and, breaking off its most tender branches, divide them into
short
slips of equal length and divest these slips of their bark, which they
carry to the nearest stream leading to their village, thence floating
it
home. Occasionally the slips are stored away for the winter
without
being stripped of the bark; and, in this event, they are careful to
remove
the refuse wood from their dwellings, as soon as they have eaten the
rind,
taking the sticks to some distance. During the spring of the year
the males are never found with the tribe at home, but always by
themselves,
either singly, or in parties of two or three, when they appear to lose
their usual habits of sagacity, and fall an easy prey to the arts of
the
trapper. In sununer they return home, and busy themselves, with
the
females, in making provision for winter. They are described as
exceedingly
ferocious animals when irritated.Now and then they may be caught upon
shore;
especially
the males in spring, who are then fond of roving to some distance from
the water in search of food. When thus caught, they are easily
killed
with a blow from a stick; but the most certain and efficacious mode of
taking them is by means of the trap. This is simply constructed
to
catch the foot of the animal. The trapper places it usually in
some
position near the shore, and just below the surface of the water,
fastening
it by a small chain to a pole stuck in the mud. In the mouth of
the
machine is placed one end of a small branch; the other end rising above
the surface, and well soaked in the liquid bait whose odor is found to
be attractive to the beaver. As soon as the animal scents it, he
rubs his nose against the twig, and, in so doing, steps upon the trap,
springs it, and is caught. The trap is made very light, for the
convenience
of portage, and the prey would easily swim off with it but for its
being
fastened to the pole by a chain — no other species of fastening could
resist
his teeth. The experienced trapper readily detects the presence
of
beaver in any pond or stream; discovering them by a thousand
appearances
which would afford no indication to the unpractised observer.Many of the identical woodcutters
whom the two
voyagers
had watched so narrowly from the tree-top, fell afterwards a victim to
trap, and their fine furs became a prey to the spoilers, who made sad
havoc
in the lodge at the swamp. Other waters in the neighborhood also
afforded the travellers much sport; and they long remembered the island
at the creek's mouth, by the name of Beaver Island, in
consequence. They left this little Paradise in high spirits on the
twenty-seventh of
the month, and, pursuing their hitherto somewhat uneventful voyage up
the
river, arrived, by the first of September, without any incident of
note,
at the mouth of a large river on the south, to which they gave the name
of Currant River, from some berries abounding upon its margin, but
which
was, beyond doubt, the Quicourre. The principal objects of which
the Journal takes notice in this interval, are the numerous herds of
buffalo
which darkened the prairies in every direction, and the remains of a
fortification
on the south shore of the river, nearly opposite the upper extremity of
what has been since called Bonhomme Island. Of these remains a
minute
description is given, which tallies in every important particular with
that of Captains Lewis and Clarke. The travellers had passed the
Little Sioux, Floyd's, the Great Sioux, White-Stone, and Jacques rivers
on the North; with Wawandyscnche creek, and White-Paint river on the
south,
but at neither of these streams did they stop to trap for any long
period. They had also passed the great village of the Omahas, of which
the
Journal
takes no notice whatever. This village, at the time, consisted of
full three hundred houses, and was inhabited by a numerous and powerful
tribe; but it is not immediately upon the banks of the Missouri, and
the
boats probably went by it during the night — for the party had begun to
adopt this mode of progress, through fear of the Sioux. We resume
the narrative of Mr. Rodman, with the second of September.]September 2. We had now
reached a part of
the river where, according to all report, a great deal of danger was to
be apprehended from the Indians, and we became extremely cautious in
our
movements. This was the region inhabited by the Sioux, a warlike
and ferocious tribe, who had, upon several occasions, evinced hostility
to the whites, and were knonvn to be constantly at war with all the
neighboring
tribes. The Canadians had many incidents to relate respecting
their
savage propensities, and I had much apprehension lest these cowardly
creatures
should take an opportunity of deserting, and retracing their way to the
Mississippi. To lessen the chances of this, I removed one of them
from the piroque, and supplied his place by Poindexter Greely. All
the Greelys came in from the shore, turning loose the horses. Our
arrangement was now as follows: — In the piroque, [page 113:]
Poindexter Greely,
Pierre
Junôt, Toby, and one Canadian — in the large boat, myself;
Thornton;
Wormley; John, Frank, Robert, and Meredith Greely; and three Canadians,
with the dog. We set sail about dusk, and, having a brisk wind
from
the south, made good head-way, although, as night came on, we were
greatly
embarrassed by the shoals. We continued our course without
interruption,
however, until a short time before day-break, when we ran into the
mouth
of a creek, and concealed the boats among the underwood.September 3 and 4. During both of
these
days it rained and blew with excessive violence, so that we did not
leave
our retreat at all. The weather depressed our spirits very much,
and the narratives of the Canadians about the terrible Sioux did not
serve
to raise them. We all congregated in the cabin of the large boat,
and held a council in regard to our future movements. The Greelys
were for a bold push through the dangerous country, maintaining that
the
stories of the voyagers were mere exaggerations, and that the Sioux
would
only be a little troublesome, without proceeding to hostility. Wormley
and Thornton, however, as well as Pierre (all of whom had much
experience
in the Indian character) thought that our present policy was the best,
although it would necessarily detain us much longer on our voyage than
would otherwise be the case. My own opinion coincided with theirs
— in our present course we might escape any collision with the Sioux —
and I did not regard the delay as a matter of consequence.September 5. We set off at
night, and
proceeded
for about ten miles, when the day began to appear, and we hid the boats
as before, in a narrow creek, which was well adapted to the purpose, as
its mouth was almost blocked up by a thickly-wooded island. It
again
came on to rain furiously, and we were all drenched to the skin before
we could arrange matters for turning in, in the cabin. Our
spirits
were much depressed by the bad weather, and the Canadians especially
were
in a miserable state of dejection. We had now come to a narrow
part
of the river where the current was strong, and the cliffs on both sides
overhung the water, and were thickly wooded with lynn, oak,
black-walnut,
ash, and chesnut. Through such a gorge we knew it would be
exceedingly
difficult to pass without observation, even at night, and our
apprehensions
of attack were greatly increased. We resolved not to re-commence
our journey until late, and then to proceed with the most stealthy
caution. In the meantime we posted a sentry on shore, and one in the
piroque,
while
the rest of us busied ourselves in overhauling the arms and ammunition,
and preparing for the worst.About ten o'clock we were getting
ready to start,
when the dog gave a low growl, which made us all fly to our rifles; but
the cause of the disturbance proved to be a single Indian of the Ponca
tribe, who came up frankly to our sentry on shore, and extended his
hand. We brought him on board, and gave him whiskey, when he became
very
communicative,
and told us that his tribe, who lived some miles lower down the river,
had been watching our movements for several days past, but that the
Poncas
were friends and would not molest the whites, and would trade with us
upon
our return. They had sent him now to caution the whites against
the
Sioux, who were great robbers, and who were lying in wait for the party
at a bend of the river, twenty miles farther up. There were three
bands of them, he said, and it was their intention to kill us all, in
revenge
for an insult sustained by one of their chiefs, many years previously,
at the hands of a French trapper.[[Continued . . . ]] |
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