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BEING AN ACCOUNT OF THE FIRST PASSAGE ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS OF NORTH —————
CHAPTER VI.  THE
character
of the country through which we had passed for the last two or three
days
was cheerless in comparison with that to which we had been
accustomed. In general it was more level; the timber being more
abundant on the
skirts
of the stream, with little or none at all in the distance. Wherever
bluffs appeared upon the margin we descried indications of coal, and we
saw one extensive bed of a thick bituminous nature which very much
discolored
the water for some hundred yards below it. The current is more
gentle
than hitherto, the water clearer, and the rocky points and shoals
fewer,
although such as we had to pass were as difficult as ever. We had
rain incessantly, which rendered the banks so slippery that the men who
had the towing lines could scarcely walk. The air too was
disagreeably
chilly, and upon ascending some low hills near the river we observed no
small quantity of snow lying in the clefts and ridges. In the
extreme
distance on our right we had perceived several Indian encampments which
had the appearance of being temporary, and had been only lately
abandoned. This region gives no indication of any permanent settlement,
but
appears
to be a favorite hunting ground with the tribes in the vicinity — a
fact
rendered evident by the frequent traces of the hunt, which we came
across
in every direction. The Minnetarees of the Missouri, it is well
known,
extend their excursions in pursuit of game as high as the great fork,
on
the south side; while the Assiniboins go up still higher. Misquash
informed us that between our present encampment and the Rocky Mountains
we should meet with no lodges except those of the Minnetarees that
reside
on the lower or south side of the Saskatchawine. The game had been exceedingly
abundant, and in
great
variety — elk, buffalo, big-horn, mule-deer, bears, foxes, beaver,
etc.,
etc., with wild fowl innumerable. Fish was also plentiful. The width of
the stream varied considerably from two hundred and fifty
yards to passes where the current rushed between bluffs not more than a
hundred feet apart. The face of these bluffs generally was
composed
of a light yellowish freestone, intermingled with burnt earth,
pumice-stone,
and mineral salts. At one point the aspect of the country
underwent
a remarkable change, the hills retiring on both sides to a great
distance
from the river, which was thickly interspersed with small and beautiful
islands, covered with cotton-wood. The low grounds appeared to be
very fertile; those on the north wide and low, and opening into three
extensive
valleys. Here seemed to be the extreme northern termination of
the
range of mountains through which the Missouri had been passing for so
long
a time, and which are called the Black Hills by the savages. The
change from the mountainous region to the level was indicated by the
atmosphere,
which now became dry and pure; so much so indeed that we perceived its
effects upon the seams of our boats, and our few mathematical
instruments. As we made immediate approach to the
forks it
came
on to rain very hard, and the obstructions in the river were harassing
in the extreme. The banks in some places were so slippery, and
the
clay so soft and stiff that the men were obliged to go barefooted, as
they
could not keep on their moccasins. The shores also were full of
pools
of stagnant water, through which we were obliged to wade, sometimes up
to our armpits. Then again we had to scramble over enormous
shoals
of sharp- pointed flints, which appeared to be the wreck of cliffs that
had fallen down en masse. Occasionally we came to a
precipitous
gorge or gully, which it would put us to the greatest labor to pass,
and
in attempting to push by one of these the rope of the large boat (being
old and much worn) gave way and permitted her to be swung round by the
current upon a ledge of rock in the middle of the stream, where the
water
was so deep that we could only work in getting her off by the aid of
the
piroque, and so were full six hours in effecting it. At one period we arrived at a high
wall of black
rock on the south, towering above the ordinary cliffs for about a
quarter
of a mile along the stream; after which there was an open plain, and
about
three miles beyond this again, another wall of a light color on the
same
side, fully two hundred feet high; then another plain or valley, and
then
still another wall of the most singular appearance arises on the north,
soaring in height probably two hundred and fifty feet, and being in
thickness
about twelve, with a very regular artificial character. These
cliffs
present indeed the most extraordinary aspect, rising perpendicularly
from
the water. The last mentioned are composed of very white soft
sandstone,
which readily receives the impression of the water. In the upper
portion of them appears a sort of frieze or cornice formed by the
intervention
of several thin horizontal strata of [page 256:] a white
freestone, hard, and
unaffected
by the rains. Above them is a dark rich soil, sloping gradually
back
from the water to the extent of a mile or thereabouts, when other hills
spring up abruptly to the height of full five hundred feet more. The face of these remarkable cliffs,
as might be
supposed, is chequered with a variety of lines formed by the trickling
of the rains upon the soft material, so that a fertile fancy might
easily
imagine them to be gigantic monuments reared by human art, and carved
over
with hieroglyphical devices. Sometimes there are complete niches
(like those we see for statues in common temples) formed by the
dropping
out bodily of large fragments of the sandstone; and there are several
points
where staircases and long corridors appear, as accidental fractures in
the freestone cornice happen to let the rain trickle down uniformly
upon
the softer material below. We passed these singular bluffs in a
bright
moonlight and their effect upon my imagination I shall never
forget. They had all the air of enchanted structures, (such as I have
dreamed
of,)
and the twittering of myriads of martins, which have built their nests
in the holes that every where perforate the mass, aided this conception
not a little. Besides the main walls there are, at intervals,
inferior
ones, of from twenty to a hundred feet high, and from one to twelve or
fifteen feet thick, perfectly regular in shape, and
perpendicular. These are formed of a succession of large black-looking
stones,
apparently
made up of loam, sand, and quartz, and absolutely symmetrical in
figure,
although of various sizes. They are usually square, but sometimes
oblong (always parrallelepipedal) and are lying one above the other as
exactly and with as perfect regularity as if placed there by some
mortal
mason; each upper stone covering and securing the point of junction
between
two lower ones, just as bricks are laid in a wall. Sometimes
these
singular erections run in parallel lines, as many as four abreast;
sometimes
they leave the river and go back until lost amid the hills; sometimes
they
cross each other at right angles, seeming to enclose large artificial
gardens,
the vegetation within which is often of a character to preserve the
illusion. Where the walls are thinnest, there the bricks are less in
size, and
the
converse. We regarded the scenery presented to our view at this
portion
of the Missouri as altogether the most surprising, if not the most
beautiful
which we had yet seen. It left upon my own mind an impression of
novelty — of singularity, which can never be effaced. Shortly before reaching the fork we
came to a
pretty
large island on the northern side, one mile and a quarter from which is
a low ground on the south very thickly covered with fine timber. After
this there were several small islands, at each of which we
touched
for a few minutes as we passed. Then we came to a very
black-looking
bluff on the north, and then to two other small islands, about which we
observed nothing remarkable. Going a few miles farther we reached
a tolerably large island situated near the point of a steep promontory;
afterwards passing two others, smaller. All these islands are
well
timbered. It was at night on the 13th of May, that we were shown
by Misquash the mouth of the large river, which in the settlements goes
by the name of the Yellow Stone, but by the Indians is called the
Ahmateaza.* We made our camp on the south shore
in a beautiful plain covered with
cotton-wood. May 14. This morning we
were all
awake
and stirring at an early hour, as the point we had now reached was one
of great importance, and it was requisite that, before proceeding any
farther,
we should make some survey by way of ascertaining which of the two
large
streams in view would afford us the best passage onward. It
seemed
to be the general wish of the party to push up one of these rivers as
far
as practicable, with a view of reaching the Rocky Mountains, when we
might
perhaps hit upon the head waters of the large stream Aregan, described
by all the Indians with whom we had conversed upon the subject, as
running
into the great Pacific Ocean. I was also anxious to attain this
object,
which opened to my fancy a world of exciting adventure, but I foresaw
many
difficulties which we must necessarily encounter if we made the attempt
with our present limited information in respect to the region we should
have to traverse, and the savages who occupied it; about which latter
we
only knew indeed that they were generally the most ferocious of the
North
American Indians. I was afraid, too, that we might get into the
wrong
stream, and involve ourselves in an endless labyrinth of troubles which
would dishearten the men. These thoughts, however, did not give
me
any long uneasiness, and I set to work at once to explore the
neighborhood;
sending some of the party up the banks of each stream to estimate the
comparative
volume of water in each, while I myself, with Thornton and John Greely,
proceeded to ascend the high grounds in the fork, whence an extensive
prospect
of the surrounding region might be attained. We saw here an
immense
and magnificent country spreading out on every side into a vast plain,
waving with glorious verdure, and alive with countless herds of
buffaloes
and wolves, intermingled with occasional elk and antelope. To the
south the prospect was interrupted by a range of high, snow-capped
mountains,
stretching from south east to north west, and terminating
abruptly. Behind these again was a higher range, extending to the very
horizon in
the north west. The two rivers presented the most enchanting
appearance
as they wound away their long snake-like lengths [page 257:] in
the distance,
growing
thinner and thinner until they looked like mere faint threads of silver
as they vanished in the shadowy mists of the sky. We could glean
nothing, from their direction so far, as regards their ultimate course,
and so descended from our position much at a loss what to do. The examination of the two currents
gave us but
little
more satisfaction. The north stream was found to be the deeper,
but
the south was the wider, and the volume of water differed but
little. The first had all the color of the Missouri, but the latter had
the
peculiar
round gravelly bed which distinguishes a river that issues from a
mountainous
region. We were finally determined by the easier navigation of
the
north branch to pursue this course, although from the rapidly
increasing
shallowness we found that in a few days, at farthest, we should have to
dispense with the large boat. We spent three days at our
encampment,
during which we collected a great many fine skins, and deposited them
with
our whole stock on hand, in a well constructed cache on a small
island in the river a mile below the junction.*
We also brought in a
great
quantity of game, and especially of deer, some haunches of which we
pickled
or corned for future use. We found great abundance of the prickly
pear in this vicinity, as well as chokeberries in great plenty upon the
low grounds and ravines. There were also many yellow and red
currants
(not ripe) with gooseberries. Wild roses were just beginning to
open
their buds in the most wonderful profusion. We left our
encampment
in fine spirits on the morning of May 18. The day was pleasant, and we proceeded merrily, notwithstanding the consistent interruptions occasioned by the shoals and jutting points with which the stream abounds. The men, one and all, were enthusiastic in their determination to persevere, and the Rocky Mountains were the sole theme of conversation. In leaving our peltries behind us, we had considerably lightened the boats, and we found much less difficulty in getting them forward through the rapid currents than would otherwise have been the case. The river was crowded with islands, at nearly all of which we touched. At night we reached a deserted Indian encampment, near bluffs of a blackish clay. Rattlesnakes disturbed us very much, and before morning we had a heavy rain. May 19. We had not
proceeded far
before
we found the character of the stream materially altered, and very much
obstructed by sand bars, or rather ridges of small stones, so that it
was
with the greatest difficulty we could force a passage for the larger
boat. Sending two men ahead to reconnoitre, they returned with an
account of
a wider and deeper channel above, and once again we felt encouraged to
persevere. We pushed on for ten miles and encamped on a small
island
for the night. We observed a peculiar mountain in the distance to
the south, of a conical form, isolated, and entirely covered with
snow. May 20. We now entered
into a
better
channel, and pursued our course with little interruption for sixteen
miles,
through a clayey country of peculiar character, and nearly destitute of
vegetation. At night we encamped on a very large island, covered
with tall trees, many of which were new to us. We remained at
this
spot for five days to make some repairs in the piroque. During our sojourn here an incident
of note
occurred. The banks of the Missouri in this neighborhood are
precipitous, and
formed
of a peculiar blue clay, which becomes excessively slippery after
rain. The cliffs, from the bed of the stream back to the distance of a
hundred
yards, or thereabouts, form a succession of steep terraces of this
clay,
intersected in numerous directions by deep and narrow ravines, so
sharply
worn by the action of water at some remote period of time as to have
the
appearance of artificial channels. The mouths of these ravines,
where
they debouche upon the river, have a very remarkable
appearance,
and look from the opposite bank, by moonlight, like gigantic columns
standing
erect upon the shore. To an observer from the uppermost terrace
the
whole descent towards the stream has an indescribably chaotic and
dreary
air. No vegetation of any kind is seen. John Greely, the Prophet, the
interpreter Jules,
and myself started out after breakfast one morning to ascend to the
topmost
terrace on the south shore for the purpose of looking around us; in
short
to see what could be seen. With great labor, and by using
scrupulous
caution, we succeeded in reaching the level grounds at the summit
opposite
our encampment. The prairie here differs from the general
character
of that kind of land in being thickly overgrown for many miles back
with
cotton- wood, rose-bushes, red willow, and broad-leaved willow; the
soil
being unsteady, and at times swampy, like that of the ordinary low
grounds
— it consists of a black-looking loam, one-third sand, [page 258:]
and when a
handful
of it is thrown into water, it dissolves in the manner of sugar, with
strong
bubbles. In several spots we observed deep incrustations of
common
salt, some of which we collected and used. Upon reaching these level grounds we
all sat down
to rest, and had scarcely done so when we were alarmed by a loud growl
immediately in our rear, proceeding from the thick underwood. We
started to our feet at once in great terror, for we had left our rifles
at the island, that we might be unincumbered in the scramble up the
cliffs,
and the only arms we had were pistols and knives. We had scarcely
time to say a word to each other before two enormous brown bears (the
first
we had yet encountered during the voyage) came rushing at us
open-mouthed
from a clump of rose-bushes. These animals are much dreaded by
the
Indians, and with reason, for they are indeed formidable creatures,
possessing
prodigious strength, with untameable ferocity, and the most wonderful
tenacity
of life. There is scarcely any way of killing them by a bullet,
unless
the shot be through the brains, and these are defended by two large
muscles
covering the side of the forehead, as well as by a projection of a
thick
frontal bone. They have been known to live for days with half a
dozen
balls through the lungs, and even with very severe injuries in the
heart. So far we had never met with a brown bear, although often with
its
tracks
in the mud or sand, and these we had seen nearly a foot in length,
exclusive
of the claws, and full eight inches in width. What to do was now the
question. To stand
and
fight, with such weapons as we possessed, was madness; and it was folly
to think of escape by flight in the direction of the prairie; for not
only
were the bears running towards us from that quarter, but, at a very
short
distance back from the cliffs, the underwood of briar-bushes, dwarf
willow,
etc., was so thick that we could not have made our way through it at
all,
and if we kept our course along the river between the underwood and the
top of the cliff, the animals would catch us in an instant; for as the
ground was boggy we could make no progress upon it, while the large
flat
foot of the bear would enable him to travel with ease. It seemed
as if these reflections (which it takes some time to embody in words)
flashed
all of them through the minds of all of us in an instant — for every
man
sprang at once to the cliffs, without sufficiently thinking of the
hazard
that lay there. The first descent was some thirty or
forty feet,
and not very precipitous; the clay here also partook in a slight degree
of the loam of the upper soil; so that we scrambled down with no great
difficulty to the first terrace, the bears plunging after us with
headlong
fury. Arrived here, we had not a moment for hesitation. There
was nothing left for us now but to encounter the enraged beasts upon
the
narrow platform where we stood, or to go over the second
precipice. This was nearly perpendicular, sixty or seventy feet deep,
and composed
entirely of the blue clay which was now saturated with late rains, and
as slippery as glass itself. The Canadian, frightened out of his
senses, leaped to the edge at once, slid with the greatest velocity
down
the cliff, and was hurled over the third descent by the impetus of his
course. We then lost sight of him, and of course supposed him
killed;
for we could have no doubt that his terrific slide would be continued
from
precipice to precipice until it terminated with a plunge over the last
into the river — a fall of more than a hundred and fifty feet. Had Jules not gone in this way it is
more than
probable
that we should all have decided, in our extremity, upon attempting the
descent; but his fate caused us to waver, and in the meantime the
monsters
were upon us. This was the first time in all my life I had ever
been
brought to close quarters with a wild animal of any strength or
ferocity,
and I have no scruple to acknowledge that my nerves were completely
unstrung. For some moments I felt as if about to swoon, but a loud
scream from
Greely,
who had been seized by the foremost bear, had the effect of arousing me
to exertion, and when once fairly aroused I experienced a kind of wild
and savage pleasure from the conflict. One of the beasts, upon reaching the
narrow ledge
where we stood, had made an immediate rush at Greely, and had borne him
to the earth, where he stood over him, holding him with his huge teeth
lodged in the breast of his overcoat — which, by the greatest good
fortune,
he had worn, the wind being chilly. The other, rolling rather
than
scrambling down the cliff, was under so much headway when he reached
our
station that he could not stop himself until the one-half of his body
hung
over the precipice; he staggered in a sidelong manner, and his right
legs
went over while he held on in an awkward way with his two left. While
thus situated he seized Wormley by the heel with his mouth, and for an
instant I feared the worst, for in his efforts to free himself from the
grasp the terrified struggler aided the bear to regain his
footing. While I stood helpless, as above described, through terror,
and
watching
the event without ability to render the slightest aid, the shoe and
moccasin
of W. were torn off in the grasp of the animal, who now tumbled
headlong
down to the next terrace, but stopped himself, by means of his huge
claws,
from sliding farther. It was now that Greely screamed for aid,
and
the Prophet and myself rushed to his assistance. We both fired
our
pistols at the bear's head; and my own ball, I am sure, must have gone
through some portion of his skull, for I held the weapon close to his
ear. He seemed more angry, however, than hurt; the only good effect of
the
discharge
was in his quitting his hold of Greely (who had sustained no injury)
and
making at us. We had nothing but our knives to depend upon, and
even
the refuge of the terrace below was cut off from us by the presence of
another bear there. We had our backs to the cliff, and [page 259:]
were
preparing
for a deadly contest, not dreaming of help from Greely (whom we
supposed
mortally injured) when we heard a shot, and the huge beast fell at our
feet, just when we felt his hot and horribly fetid breath in our
faces. Our deliverer, who had fought many a bear in his life-time, had
put his
pistol deliberately to the eye of the monster, and the contents had
entered
the brain. Looking now downwards, we discovered the fallen
bruin
making ineffectual efforts to scramble up to us — the soft clay yielded
to his claws, and he fell repeatedly and heavily. We tried him
with
several shots, but did no harm, and resolved to leave him where he was
for the crows. I do not see how he could ever have made his
escape
from the spot. We crawled along the ledge on which we stood for
nearly
half a mile before we found a practicable path to the prairie above us,
and did not get to camp until late in the night. Jules was there
all alive, but cruelly bruised — so much so indeed that he had been
unable
to give any intelligible account of his accident or of our
whereabouts. He had lodged in one of the ravines upon the third
terrace, and had
made
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